Two Steps to Everest * 7 Summits (Mt. Elbrus, 5642m) and Ascent to the Top of Peak Lenin (7134m)* , 9+21 days

Type: special offers, active, adventures, recommended, extreme, climbing

Route: Elbrus, Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzia, Lenin Peak, Moscow, Min Vody

Dates: upon request, june to september

Mode: vehicle, climbimg, on foot

Group: 1 pax and more

We do offer you to take” two in one” program included ascent on the two famous and favorite summits – Mt. Elbrus (5642 m) and Peak Lenin  (7134 m). The cheapest way is to use  for Elbrus fixed dates trip is guaranteed. As for Lenin Peak, you are rather flexible in climbing time inside a recommended season for.

Also you able to reduce duration of your Lenin Peak program according to your wishes and personal acclimatization you already have got at Elbrus area.

  The Caucasus is a mighty chain of high alpine mountains, separating Europe from Asia. Just north of the main range, several kilometers into Europe, lies the highest European peak – Mount Elbrus, 5642 m. Such a high altitude, redoubled with damp air from the Black Sea, demands several days for acclimatization.

Departures  of Elbrus section  program 2011: 

 03-11.07.2011
 11-19.07
 19-27.07
 27.07-04.08
 04-12.08
 12-20.08
 20-28.08
 28.08-05.09.2011


The climb of Mt. Elbrus (5642m) is long and strenuous. It is not technically difficult but usually requires use of crampons, alpenstocks and occasionally - ice axes. Experienced skilled guides always do their best to ensure that each participant would have his/her best chance to reach the summit. Among many available routes we are choosing the most popular one. The 8-days itinerary Elbrus is for lucky people who believe in proper weather on the day of climbing the summit. In case of improper weather there is a chance for the second and last attempt next day with a long descent straight to the hotel in the valley. A group with good previous acclimatization may skip the day 2 of the itinerary to get one more day for climbing the summit. The 9-days itinerary Elbrus grants excellent acclimatization for the most of people and the best chance to climb the summit of Europe.

Peak Lenin (7134m), one of the highest summits of the Pamir mountains system, is located in the middle of the Zaalaiski ridge and administratively belongs to the Chon-alaisky district of the Osh region, Kyrgyzstan . Lenin Peak includes a large body of  ice  and snow, stretching from the KrylenkoPass (5,820m) in the east  to Razdelnaya mountain (6148m) in the west. A lot of glaciers move down the northern and southern slopes of Peak Lenin. The largest are Lenin Glacier (length 13.5km, area 55.3km2) and Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier (length 20.6km, area 23.5km2). Numerous tributaries of the KyzylsuRiver, the main river of the Alaiskaya valley, originate from the northern glaciers of Peak Lenin. The summit of Peak Lenin towers 3000m over  the amphitheater of the Lenin Glacier. The northern and southern slopes, jagged with deep fissures (up to 100m), are 45 0 – 50 0 steep. Avalanches and snow slides are frequent on the slopes of Peak Lenin. The snow line of the northern slope is 4200 – 4500m high, while on the southern slope 4800 - 5400m  high. Climate varies from moderate at the foot, on the Alaiskaya valley, to arctic at high altitudes. Gale-force winds are frequent at the summit.

The best time for ascent is following:

    *   for Mt.  Elbrus,  from June to September
    *   for Peak Lenin,  from July to August.

A. ITINERARY. Mt. Elbrus  (5642 m) program part:

Day 0. Arrival in Moscow. Meet. Transfer. Hotel. Optional excursion in the city

Day 1. Breakfast. Transfer to a/port. Fly to MinVody. Arrival in Mineralny Vody. Transfer (4 hours of bus ride) to Terskol village (2050 m) in the Baksan valley near the foothills of Mt. Elbrus.  Accommodation in a hotel. (BD)
Day 2. Acclimatization hike to Terskol Valley (about 5 hours). Return to the hotel. (BLD)
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent of Mt.Cheget (3461 m, about 5 hours). Return to the hotel. (BLD)
Day 4. Transfer to Azau cable-car station. Lift Azau (2100 m) - Garabashi (3750 m). Acclimatization hike to 4200 m. Descent to the Valley. Overnight in the hotel (BLD)
Day 5. Transfer to Azau cable-car station. Lift Azau (2100 m) - Garabashi (3750 m).Check-in into Barrels Hut. Acclimatization hike to the Pastukhov Rocks (4800 m). Return. 4-5 hours. Overnight in the Barrels. (BLD)
Day 6.  Rest in Barrels. (BLD)
Day 7. Summit day. Leave the base camp about 03 a.m. Climb of Elbrus western summit (5642 m). Return. 12-14 hours. Overnight in the Barrels. (BLD)
Day 8.  Descend to Terskol. Overnight in a hotel. (BLD)
Day 9. Transfer to Mineralny Vody. Departure fly to Moscow. Connected flight to Tashkent (B)

B. ITINERARY. Lenin Peak (7134 m) program part:

Day 1 (day 10).     Arrival to Tashkent  (or in Bishkek).   Hotel.  
Day 2.     Land transfer  from  Tashkent  to  Osh (or Flight
               from Bishkek to Osh). Hotel (B)
Day 3.     Land transfer Osh – Base camp “Lenin Peak”
                (3800 m) on Lukovaya glade (9-10 hrs) BLD
Day 4-17. Acclimatization and ascents (please see Notes below !)         
Day 18.    Reserve day (in case of bad weather)
Day 19.    Land transfer the Base camp “Lenin Peak” – Osh (BL)
Day 20.    Land  transfer from Osh to Tashkent (or Flight from
                Osh to Bishkek). Hotel. (B)
Day 21 (day 30)   Transfer to a/port.  Departure (B)

NOTES. Ascent Tactics for Peak Lenin.
Section 1 – Base camp “Lukovaya Polyana” (3800 m) – Camp1 the Lenin Glacier.
A)Base camp. Over the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1,5h on a good mountain
 path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass.
B)Descend to the leftside moraine of the Lenin glacier. Landslides and rock-falls are a possibility on some parts of   
the path. Time: 30-40 min. The river must be crossed carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as
the river rises rapidly throughout after this time.
Across the left moraine of the glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100m). Total time: 1-1,5h.
D)   Walk  to camp1 (4200m) (1,5- 2,5h).
Section 2 -  Camp1 (4200m) – Camp2 (5300m). Recommended time of departure: 6-7 a.m.
Along the Lenin glacier up to the beginning of  the slope.  Total  time: 1-2h. Many small crevasses. If there is a  
lot of snow, ropes my be needed. Final height – 5000m.
Ascent of sleep snow/ice slope in crampons. Fixed rope ascent (100 vertical meters, 40 0-45 0 ). This  slope
then  flattens out. Wide  crevasses. Aluminum/rope ladders and fixed ropes may be required.
       Total time: 2-3h. Final height – 5100m.
Traverse around the slope onto the plateau, where Camp2 is situated. Big crevasses. The camp is situated on
the screed slope. Total time: 1-2h. We recommend that ropes should be used throughout this section.
Section 3 – Camp2 (5300m) – Camp3 (6100m) Recommended time of departure: 8:00 a.m.
From camp2 to the ridge. Steep slope. If there is not much snow there may be a problem with crevasses. Total time:  1-2,5h. Strong winds on the ridge are possible.
Along the ridge towards to the „Razdelnaya“ Peak (6200m). Strong winds, deep snow  traverse of the summit to the left (sleep slope up to 50 degrees). In case of bad weather – over the summit. Total time:  2-4h. Camp3 (6100m) is situated on the saddle. There are often strong winds, especially at night.
Section 4 -  Camp3 – Summit (7134m). Recommended time of departure: 6-7 a.m.
Steep-ice-rock slope. Total time:1,2-3h.
Along narrow ridge to the „Nosh“. No  ropes needed.  „Nosh“  is a steep ice ridge with fixed ropes.
Total time: 1,5-3h. Be wary of  strong gusts of wind.
Along easy  rocky ridge to plateau (6900-7000m). Possibly deep snow. Total time: 2-3,5h.
Descent  along the same route. The descent takes 2-3 times less of ascent time.

Notes. We do offer you after climbing visit  the beautiful ancient cities in Uzbekistan as Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. (extra charge. Cost will be given upon your request !)

A. Services Included in Mt. Elbrus program part:
•    DBL/Twin accommodation
•    meals according to itinerary
•    all transfers according to the itinerary
•    English speaking guide (other languages – on request)
•    English speaking mountain guides (1 guide per 2-4 PAX)
•    subsidiary staff when needed
Supplement:
•    SGL in hotel +  120 EURO/p.p. per Elbrus whole program
•    Permit for national park and summit + 25 EURO
•    Air tickets Moscow –Min Vody – Moscow, from  230 EURO, return
•    Extra night in Moscow at hotel 3**, in standard twin, B&B + 48 EURO/per person/per night
•    Rent of personal equipment

B. Services Included in Lenin Peak program part:
•    Meeting/seeing off the airport
•    All transfers according to the program
•    Domestic flights (Bishkek – Osh - Bishkek)
•    Accommodation at the hotels 2*/guest house/ with breakfast in Tashkent (or Bishkek) and Osh (4 nights)
•    Arranging registration in immigration police,
•    Permit for boundary zone
•    Meals during the way Osh – Base camp - Osh
•    provided services during your stay in the “Lenin peak” Base Camp and Camp 01 :
1.    double base accommodation in tents (tents are with wooden flooring and ‘kurpacha’ – national mattresses)
2.    meals full board (3 times hot meal from professional cooks)
3.    using dining yurts (in national style) for rest and have lunch and dinner
4.    using: sauna, toilet, storage tent
5.    guide-consultant’s services
6.    medical aid (professional doctor-reanimation)
7.    electricity 220V; 50Hz